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Glacier Bay National Park

maryabud

6/28/2024 - 7/2/2024 We have permits to enter Glacier Bay National Park for five days and four nights. While the park is huge (24 million acres), the National Park Service limits the numbers of vessels that can operate in a day to 2 cruise ships, 3 tour boats, 6 charter vessels, and 25 private vessels. We are lucky and happy to be three of this small number.


Entering Glacier Bay National Park on a sunny day


Glacier Bay National Park is the ancestral homeland of the Huna Tlingit clans who sustained themselves for centuries on the abundant resources of the land and sea. Although villages inside the Bay were overrun by the Little Ice Age glacial advance of the 1700's, the Huna Tlingit re-established numerous fish camps and several villages in Glacier Bay soon after glacial retreat. The Huna Tribal House memorializes the clan houses that once lined the shores of present day Bartlett Cove, now the site of National Park Service headquarters in Glacier Bay. The project also provides an opportunity to revitalize Tlingit artistic traditions. Through a cooperative agreement between the tribal government and NPS, master craftsmen have trained a cadre of local apprentices and students in traditional Tlingit art and design, carving, adzing, and spruce root weaving. Over seven years, carvers have crafted and installed the elaborately carved and painted cedar panels that adorn the house front, four richly detailed interior cedar house posts and an interior house screen which depicts the stories of the four primary Huna Tlingit clans. Raven and Eagle totems were completed and installed in 2017 as well as the Healing Pole in August 2018. These precious cultural elements impart spiritual value to the Tribal House and its surroundings, but as importantly, their design and completion has expanded the circle of tribal members who share in cultural knowledge. The Tribal House serves as a box of knowledge to learn about Tlingit culture as well as for Tlingit communities and organizations to offer cultural workshops on topics such as Native art, woodworking, weaving, song and dance, healthy living, and more. (Ref: https://www.nps.gov/glba/learn/historyculture/huna-tribal-house-project.htm).


Tlingit Tribal House in Glacier Bay National Park

Tlingit Tribal House in Glacier Bay National Park

Humpback whale skeleton on display in Glacier Bay National Park. This whale was hit by a cruise ship in the bay.

History

Geologists believe that Glacier Bay existed during a minimum of four Glacial periods ending with the Little Ice Age, which has a 4,000-year-old record, as the latest period. All glaciers in the park today are said to be remnants of this glacial period.


The earliest recorded history of the Glacier Bay area starts with the 1741 Russian expedition of Vitus Bering and Aleksei Chirikov. La Perouse (after whom one of the glaciers in the bay was named subsequently) established contact with the local inhabitants, the Tlingits at Lutya Bay, in 1786, though traditionally the Tlingit lived in the area before the last glacial advance forced them out.


6/29/2024 Touring Glacier Bay by Tour Boat


Due to its vast size, we opted to take a chartered tour boat through Glacier Bay National Park. This allowed us to benefit from a faster boat and guides with lots of local knowledge. They enabled us to see a variety of wildlife along with the glaciers.


Our crew (and a photo bomber) set out on a nine hour tour of the park on a tour boat

Our three captains may not be driving the boat, but that doesn’t keep them away from the pilot house

They are enjoying themselves

Marya with our Park Ranger, also named Mariah. We had a conversation about who spells it “funny”

We teased Phil a little bit about looking like a tourist (camera, binoculars, and shorts)

Yet Phil found someone else wearing shorts


Are you tired of seeing glacier pictures yet? I am not tired of seeing them.

Annette, Phil, Sally, and Bill enjoying the sights

Johns Hopkins Inlet glacier

A visible scar area, the near-vertical stripes in the middle are sedimentary, the rock on the right is granite. This was a major geological mash-up.

We picked up some kayakers near the north end of the park

Can you spot the mountain goats? There are two.

Tour boat spotted a momma bear for us. Two cubs are in the rocks at the top of the picture.

One of the cruise ships coming a bit close for comfort


Kinship, St. Florian, and Second Verse waiting patiently for us back in Bartlett Cove after our day-trip through the park

6/30/2024 We took our three boats on a tour from Bartlett Cove up to Gieke Inlet and then back down to North Sandy Cove.


We pulled up anchor in Bartlett Cove to head farther into Glacier bay on our own boats. We had a quite impressive seaweed ball wrapped around our anchor.

Glad we had sunshine yesterday

Quiz for the day:

What do you call a collection of otters?

A) a family

B) a romp

C) a lodge

D) a raft


We passed this raft of at least 100 otters, many with pups. (I know they sort of look like crab trap buoys, but they aren’t.)

Answer:

E) all of the above


We anchored in North Sandy Cove for our last two nights in the park. The sun came out and we enjoyed a calm evening. This cove has a gravelly bottom and the anchor chain dragging across the rocks is a very unnerving experience. Luckily it got very calm overnight and we were able to sleep.


St. Florian anchored in North Sandy Cove, Glacier Bay

6/30/2024 The three boats were anchored in North Sandy Cove by about four in the afternoon. Brad and I took a dinghy ride around the bay to explore and check water depths while Annette cooked dinner. We take turns with dinner, which is a treat for each of us to rotate the duties and rotate having to decide what to make for dinner. I do feel bad about the timing on this though as we had our best bear sighting while Annette worked on dinner.


We were looking at a small cove near a large rock slide in the bay when motion on the shore caught our attention. It was a black bear foraging in the bushes. We watched until the boat was about to drift into the rocks, at which point Brad started the dinghy motor and startled the bear. He posed nicely for us, then slowly ambled along the shore for a few minutes before heading into the growth.


Black bear in North Sandy Cove

Black bear walking along the rocky shore in North Sandy Cove

7/2/2024 Our five days and four nights are up so it is time to exit Glacier Bay National Park. We took a slow pass by South Marble island to enjoy the wildlife there.



South Marble Island has colonies of seals, puffins, terns, cormorants, and more

There are some impressively large seals in this colony


Leaving Glacier Bay on a foggy, gray day


Glacier Bay National Park

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